Ranger II cylinder lifting with the extraction star/cam

Started by JRobyn, February-16-18 14:02

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JRobyn

I think I may have discovered why this sometimes happens even WITH nice, smooth, polished chambers.  While "exercising" (ok, fondling) 045 today, I noticed that sometimes (that seems random), with an empty, unloaded gun, camming the pivot open, that the whole cylinder will lift. 

The first thing to understand is that there is almost nothing to keep this from happening except the VERY tiny overlap or "catch" of the "barrel latch" on the top edge of the cylinder.  I know that Jessica has previously acknowledged on here that this one of the super-critical tolerances in assembling a Ranger.  It can't be more than 0.020" - 0.025", at least on mine.

What I noticed is that sometimes the star extractor, which seems to be formed of two small machined plates, doesn't quite totally seat back down into it's recess in the cylinder.  The first of the two plates does, but then the second "sticks" just slightly.  When the frame is closed, it forces the star extractor all the way down, but then after firing and attempting to open and cam out the extractor/cartridges, the stuck plate, plus the force required to extract the spent cartridges is just more than that tiny "barrel latch" catch can handle.

Easily resolved by just keeping a thumb on the cylinder when opening, which feels natural anyway, a tiny bit of adjustment with the jeweler's file on any obvious pinch points (like the very tips of the rearmost extractor plate), or a trip back to the mother ship.  IMHO, it's also a good idea to be SURE that your "barrel latch" is clean, lubed, and moves freely enough to be able easily snap back all the way down whenever the frame is opened.

addenda: after a bit of corner-smoothing, it was still catching slightly, both when seating and lifting.  Closer inspection showed that the pair of extractor plates when lifted, were just 1deg - 2deg out of index with the cylinder.  A gentle twist with some pliers lined everything up perfectly and both cylinders now act just like they should.  I am a little concerned that there was very little force required to turn the extractor plate!  No clue how it's assembled since it is just an "assembly" on the parts diagram.

Bj

My cylinder would come out easily without even touching the latch by just a tiny rotation of the cylinder.  I got in the habit of putting my hand over the end of the barrel with a finger on one side of cylinder and thumb on the other side to hold the cylinder in place while loading and unloading.

Bigbird48

Hmm Holding the cylinder with hand or thumb while unloading and loading, yea works great for about 10 maybe 15 rounds but after that its to hot to handle , then if you want to keep shooting what do you do? Steel takes a long time to cool down, gloves , I don't think so. I guess 15 rounds then shoot another gun for a while LOL  ::) ???

Uncle_Lee

Quote from: Bj on February-16-18 17:02
My cylinder would come out easily without even touching the latch by just a tiny rotation of the cylinder.  I got in the habit of putting my hand over the end of the barrel with a finger on one side of cylinder and thumb on the other side to hold the cylinder in place while loading and unloading.


I think you should check on your's. I don't think the cylinder should bypass the little catches that easy. For sure it shouldn't lift without the catch being lifted without scratching the cylinder really bad.
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Bj

NAA has it now, that is one of things I want checked.  Never having touched any other ranger, it can be a little hard to no how it is supposed to be.  But the springy latch not even needing to move just seems to be against the design or why even have the latch.

Clare44man

Seems to me NAA has made the Ranger overly complicated. Should have a model w/o the extractor. Just lift the cylinder off the cylinder pin and use the pin to punch out the empties, just like all the other NAAs, except that the pin would be fixed. It would still be a big convenience over the 'remove the cylinder pin' models!  My 2 cts.
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Uncle_Lee

I think they should be just as they are.....
But without bugs.


RAID !!!!
Run away..
God, Country, & Flag

LET'S GO BRANDON ( he is gone to the beach )

redhawk4

My original cylinder would pop out at the slightest excuse and could be pulled out without releasing the catch particularly if you lined the catch lugs up with cutouts in the cylinder. The first time I fired it it got even worse, every time I opened  the barrel the cylinder would jump up. After returning it to NAA, there was a huge difference in the contact between the catch and the cylinder. If it's doing it just fiddling around with it at home, you won't like it when you actually start firing it. I'd suggest returning it to NAA for some fine tuning.
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