Cleaning and Lube

[camo]

Can I ask for advice on good way to clean and lube. I've been spraying cylinder and barrel with hoppes and swabbing with q tip til clean. Then swab with Rem oil. Also put a drop synthetic oil where looks like hammer pivots. Does anyone use brake cleaner? I have a can of CLP, but haven't used it yet.   Thanks.

[riadat]

I don't think it makes much difference.  NAA pretty low maintenance.

The main thing is to get ALL of the oil/breakfree/whatever off the gun where you will load your ammo.

I have seen that stuff left a little wet make rimfire ammo less reliable.

[Warthog]

I use hopes but not spray and rem oil. As long as you don't slip the oil on, then leave it things should be fine.

[Jobrando]

Eezox all my firearms

[Ruger]

I always use Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth on the face of my cylinder to remove any lead and carbon deposits. I cut the cloth into 1 inch squares and store them back in the original bag. Are used one and all of my stainless steel cylinder faces and other parts of the revolver that need it. I just like to see my minis clear of carbon buildup so it is easiest to remove the lead and carbon at each cleaning. Be careful using it on blued cylinders. It can eventually remove the bluing

[camo]

Thanks. Never had a revolver. Wanted to be sure there wasn't a particular place that needed a little extra attention.

[Rigemortis]

I would not use brake cleaner. Because there are working parts inside that probly need to stay a little wet and brake cleaner would remove any oil from them. You don't want to have to open the side plate to re oil springs.

I would also recommend a bore brush instead of just a qtip so the rifling gets a good cleaning. I know it's tempting because a qtip gets through the barrel, and maybe that's ok some times but every now and again get it right with a brush.

[RogueTS1]

Ballistol, copper brush and paper towels. 

[Canoeal]

Ballistol, copper brush and paper towels. 

I use the basic- all Hoppes cleaning kit- these guns are not rocket science. Oh, and I add the use of an old toothbrush. Yeah, you should change them every couple of years. 

[bearcatter]

A note about lead remover cloths. They are very slightly abrasive, so do not use them even once on bluing. The makers say not to. Being abrasive, they also remove a tiny amount of metal. You're polishing the metal. I use them a few times, and find that they've polished the surface enough to make cleaning it easier, and I don't use the cloth on that gun any more.

Easy way to use the cloth on a cylinder face is to wrap it around the edge of an old gift card. Then the flat card gives even pressure that's less likely to polish the face unevenly.

[camo]

I got to get me a good .22 cleaning kit. I've always got universal kits to clean from .22 to 12 gauge shotguns. I only shoot .22 and 410 now.

[Dinadan]

Some ammo is a lot dirtier and leads the bore more than others. In my experience, if you use good ammo like CCI then a couple of passes through each chamber and through the bore with a brass brush, followed by a couple of passes with an oily mop, is all it takes. I never worry about cleaning the internal parts; so far nothing has got dirty enough to interfere with the Minis working. I do try to remember to put a drop or two of oil into the moving parts every year or two.

[blue_heron]

I use EEZOX https://www.eezox.com/ on my Pug and Seecamp 32.