Guardian 32 broken drawbar spring

Started by Chill Bill, April-10-20 09:04

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Chill Bill

After about 300 rounds, the drawbar spring on my new G32 broke while dry firing.  Any opinions or experience here?  I really dry fired alot, with snap caps, probably around a 1,000 times, wanting to break it in.  Maybe overdid it?  Dry firing just not a great idea?  Springs do seem to be the one weak link on the gun from what I've been reading.  But not finding any stronger aftermarket alternative.  NAA is sending me a replacement spring.  Doesn't inspire confidence in defensive carry, but I'm guessing limiting the dry firing and replace the drawbar spring every ? rounds.

Thoughts or advice appreciated . . .

Ya'll stay well!
Bill

bearcatter

The drawbar spring is the Achilles Heel of Guardians. If NAA could have found a way to make a coil spring do the job it would have been appreciated by me.

I haven't had a problem with either of my Guardians, but they only have 350 rounds through one, and 50 through the other; I don't dry fire any of my guns. I did read enough posts about it that I have several spares in my parts stash.
"If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."

* Guardian .32 (2) * Zastava M70 .32 (3) * Bearcat stainless (2) * SP101 .22 * Ruger SR22 (2) * S&W M&P 15-22 Sport

Chill Bill

Yup, thanks for the confirmation, Bearcatter.  I think I'm done with dry firing.  Grrrrrr. 

theysayimnotme

The spring on the second one I bought was out of position. That may have been why I got such a good price on it as the hammer would only go back a bit & not snap. It took quite a bit of effort to get it in the right  position (I had the other one to use as a guide) but when I did it fired fine.

[email protected]

I have a Guardian .380 with Novak night sights. I've been carrying it daily since 2018. I've gone through 7 drawbar springs and one e clip. The first time I sent it back to the factory. After that I just bought 3-4 springs at a time and replace them myself.

I contacted Wolff about aftermarket/better springs and they informed me that they were the OEM supplier and that nothing was wrong with the springs and they shouldn't break like that.

In fact, I just replaced a drawer spring and an e clip last week, and then ordered 3 more of each. For some reason they only sent me two e clips. The e clips used to be a polished stainless steel. Now they are a rough finished black color. I was cleaning the pistol of lint and dust. When I removed the grip panel the e clip just fell off with it being cracked in half. I'm sure it fatigued partially from having been removed and replaced when replacing those drawbar springs. Recoil likely finished it off.

I know how you feel. If it snapped during a self defense use that would suck bad.

They break randomly for me. Sometimes at the range, sometimes while dry firing. Sometimes within 50 rounds, sometimes in 400.

I asked Naa about a round count/duty cycle in which they should be replaced and was told that they've never done that kind of testing. At first they told me that the spring breakage is unheard of. I then did some Google searching and found it was a commonly reported occurrence- even on the early iterations of this forum.

I really like the pistol though, and to be fair, the only two firearms I've owned that haven't had to go back to the factory for something is a Ruger Single Six and a Smith Model 10-5.

bearcatter

In looking over my Guardians, I don't see having to remove the e-clip to replace the drawbar spring?

Looks as though you remove the cover bolt. It goes through the loop at the forward end of the spring. All that's left then is unhooking the rear end of the spring from the drawbar. Reverse to install new spring.

Now to replace the drawbar, remove the cover bolt. You probably have to remove the hammer pin e-clip to get the cover off of the trigger pin, which is also the drawbar pivot. Or you could maybe flex the cover up and off the trigger pin without bothering the e-clip. I'm not sure if the cover will flex enough without bending. On one of my Guardians, the pin is flush with the cover. On the other, the pin is about a 32nd higher. The only difference I can find in the two guns.
"If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."

* Guardian .32 (2) * Zastava M70 .32 (3) * Bearcat stainless (2) * SP101 .22 * Ruger SR22 (2) * S&W M&P 15-22 Sport

[email protected]

Yeah, maybe. I've always just removed it all to manipulate the spring. Considering its captured under the cover plate by the screw, it seems easier to remove the plate so that, once you've captured the spring, you can pivot it from the screw end back onto the post and then replace the e clip.

Chill Bill

Man, Swmp, that's alot of springs you've gone through!!  Not what I wanted to hear, but good info, thanks.  I'm really disappointed it's an issue, because there's otherwise sooooo much I like about the gun.  There's GOT to be a fix.  I have no problem with routine maintenance, but there's no clear & authoritative guidance on drawbar/spring failure. 

I'm not smart enough to know if it's a design issue or weak spring.  It's weird to me to see that the magazine always had oil splatter on it from the spring -- like whyyyy is this spring flopping around into the magazine? Seems like asking for a problem for such close contact and potential for the magazine to crunch that spring when inserting it, if the spring is just a bit off axis. 

Bearcatter, I'm glad you said something about that e clip.  I was wondering if I really need to remove that.  I'll try with just the screw and see what happens.

I dunno.  Just a little bummed because I purchased it for defensive carry, and need to have confidence it'll go bang, not boinnnng.  Next step is replace spring, good lube, stop dry firing. 

Sorry, I'll shut up now.  Thanks for the input, guys.
Bill


theysayimnotme

I remember I had a VERY hard time getting the spring back into position but I know I didn't remove any e clip.

[email protected]

I have a very easy time replacing the spring, taking only a few seconds. And I've always removed and replaced the e clip.

I had no idea that removing that plate would prove so controversial to everyone. Good Lord, it's just an e clip. It just pops off and on.

Chill Bill

Hahahaha... true, Swmp.  Good point.  Sometimes we do get a bit intense, huh.  Not controversial, just . . . passionate?  E clip shmee clip.

[email protected]

So true.

I'm social distancing on the back deck, slow smoking a 14lb turkey as we speak... With today's bbq gun.

Chill Bill

Quote from: [email protected] on April-11-20 15:04

I'm social distancing on the back deck, slow smoking a 14lb turkey as we speak... With today's bbq gun.

Swmp, good plan.  I'm chillin, too, with my bbq gun... intruders be forewarned....I've got a SS slide to poke u with and a springless frame that's really gonna leave a bruise when I throw it at you. ;D

Waiting for Spring,
Bill


[email protected]

It's heavy enough, it'd leave a mark. Talk about knock down power...

All that spring does is reset the trigger. You could always do it manually with your finger!

bearcatter

#14
My spare e-clips came from NAA, but they are a standard hardware store item. Not sure of size, though; should be easy to figure out.

E-clip page from McMaster-Carr shows four materials and all the dimensions.

https://www.mcmaster.com/e-clips/
"If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."

* Guardian .32 (2) * Zastava M70 .32 (3) * Bearcat stainless (2) * SP101 .22 * Ruger SR22 (2) * S&W M&P 15-22 Sport

theysayimnotme

Quote from: [email protected] on April-11-20 20:04
It's heavy enough, it'd leave a mark. Talk about knock down power...

All that spring does is reset the trigger. You could always do it manually with your finger!

Unless there is more than one spring there it does more than reset the trigger. When mine was out of position the hammer would go back but not enough to fully cycle. All it would do is go back partly & then return slowly as you released the trigger. The gun would not fire.

Chill Bill

#16
Just a followup for anybody researching this in the future.  The drawbar spring is a simple DIY replacement.  I noticed the replacement part NAA sent was dark while the original was more silver.  Not sure if that's significant.  I'll order a couple to have on hand and decide on a replacement interval.  I'm wondering if there's a possibility the spring catches on the mag top sometimes when inserting a mag.  I'm gonna keep a light film of gun grease on the spring "U" and be gentle when routinely inserting the magazine, to eliminate risk of cramming the spring.  Time will tell, I guess.

Sorry if this is a tedious instruction.  Just thought it may be helpful to a first-timer.  This spring replacement is pretty simple and intuitive once you look at it.  IMHO, for most it's no need to return to NAA for the replacement.


1. Note how the broken spring was attached at each end -- on the hammer side of the drawbar and sandwiched between the panel and frame by the silver screw.  No need to detach the drawbar unless you want to inspect & clean or replace that too.

2.  Unscrew the one silver screw on the left side that attaches the side panel and captures the wound left (barrel) end of the spring.  Rotate the panel from the left side upwards and it will pivot where the e clip is attached on the right (hammer) end of the panel.  No need to remove the e clip.

3.  Clean and lube all the related area according to your lube preferences.

4.  Position the new spring onto the screw hole--leave the right end of the spring loose, unattached.  Reinsert the screw through the panel and capture the wound hole in the spring end.  Be sure the spring is oriented as the original, i.e., the "U" shape down.  You'll need to fiddle just a little to get the spring hole lined up with the frame and panel -- don't force the screw, just get the spring and holes lined up right and it'll go in fine.  The right end of the spring is still unattached, so you can let the spring just come down from the attached area and then hug the face of the panel until you're ready to reattach the right side.

5.  Once the screw is back in, you'll need to be sure the drawbar is capturing the hammer as it should before you attach the right end of the spring. You'll just need to tweak the trigger and hammer a bit to get the hammer bottom reseated in the drawbar properly so they're engaged.

6.  Insert the right end of the spring into the drawbar end. It'll make it easier if you pull the trigger just a tad to shorten the spring gap.  You should be able to insert the spring into the little hole in the drawbar with just finger pressure while holding the trigger.  Do a test trigger pull to confirm the drawbar works right.  It will, as long as you got the hammer bottom seated in the drawbar crook.  I'd suggest a very light coating of gun grease on the exposed spring itself, since it does come in contact a little with the side of the mag.  Your choice on that, of course. just my opinion.


Uncle_Lee

Hey Chill,,
Thanks for the post.
Any time you have information that maybe helpful to someone, post it.
If it is long, that means that there is more information that maybe needed.
Thanks
God, Country, & Flag

LET'S GO BRANDON ( he is gone to the beach )

OV-1D

TO ARMS , TO ARMS the liberal socialists are coming . Load and prime your weapons . Don't shoot till you see their UN patches or the Obama bumper stickers , literally . And shoot any politician that says he wants to help you or us .

bearcatter

FWIW, some useful parts info:

All of NAA's wire springs are made for them by Wolff Gunsprings. I'm not sure who makes the mini leaf springs.

I checked my NAA invoice from having bought some Guardian e-clips. It lists them as 1/8" e-clips, so now we know the size.
"If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."

* Guardian .32 (2) * Zastava M70 .32 (3) * Bearcat stainless (2) * SP101 .22 * Ruger SR22 (2) * S&W M&P 15-22 Sport

flash

Good info on here, thank you folks.

My Guardian is an early .32 Auto with AA____ serial number.  Never a problem with it and it's got several hundred rounds through it.  Seems I should pick up a few of these little springs and clips "just in case".

Canoeal

Quote from: bearcatter on April-18-20 13:04
FWIW, some useful parts info:

All of NAA's wire springs are made for them by Wolff Gunsprings. I'm not sure who makes the mini leaf springs.

I checked my NAA invoice from having bought some Guardian e-clips. It lists them as 1/8" e-clips, so now we know the size.

Wolff. They are about an hour from the shop.
"All it takes for evil to prevail, is for good men to do nothing."  Edmund Burke

redhawk4

Quote from: flash on April-20-20 09:04
Good info on here, thank you folks.

My Guardian is an early .32 Auto with AA____ serial number.  Never a problem with it and it's got several hundred rounds through it.  Seems I should pick up a few of these little springs and clips "just in case".

I should never have looked at this thread, now I feel I have to buy more spare gun parts, I was quite happy with my Guardian after all these years of never having a problem, now I feel all vulnerable :)
Old Enough to Know Better - Still Too Young to Care

I "Acted the Fool" so often in School they made me get an Equity Card

Uncle_Lee

Quote from: redhawk4 on April-20-20 13:04
Quote from: flash on April-20-20 09:04
Good info on here, thank you folks.

My Guardian is an early .32 Auto with AA____ serial number.  Never a problem with it and it's got several hundred rounds through it.  Seems I should pick up a few of these little springs and clips "just in case".

I should never have looked at this thread, now I feel I have to buy more spare gun parts, I was quite happy with my Guardian after all these years of never having a problem, now I feel all vulnerable :)

Buy another one and carry two.
They ain't very big. :)
God, Country, & Flag

LET'S GO BRANDON ( he is gone to the beach )

bearcatter

Quote from: redhawk4 on April-20-20 13:04
I should never have looked at this thread, now I feel I have to buy more spare gun parts, I was quite happy with my Guardian after all these years of never having a problem, now I feel all vulnerable :)

Quote from: uncle_lee on April-20-20 13:04
Buy another one and carry two.
They ain't very big. :)

I've got two Guardian 32s, and lots of parts. I don't expect to ever need one, but if I do, I'm covered. That does help me sleep better.
"If you get it and didn't work for it, someone else worked for it and didn't get it..."

* Guardian .32 (2) * Zastava M70 .32 (3) * Bearcat stainless (2) * SP101 .22 * Ruger SR22 (2) * S&W M&P 15-22 Sport

unclenunzie

I have almost 3500 rounds through my guardian 32.  Early on in it's life I was pretty new to guns so I just did a lot of shooting with it because it was fun.  I'm talking several hundred rounds a shooting session.  I've had trigger springs break and firing pin springs break.  Either will disable the gun.  The trigger springs break in exactly the same spot every time.    Never broke a recoil spring but have worn them out, or they seemed worn.  Replaced the e-clips several times because of work hardening when detail stripping the pistol.

A long time ago I spoke with Sandy about a possible spring replacement schedule, and while his expectation was they should last several thousands of rounds, he ventured 1000 rounds as a reasonable number to avoid breakage risk. 

Here is my advice:

Limit dry fire but always use a snap cap or spent casing if you do.
At minimum, replace the trigger spring, firing pin spring, at least every 1000 rounds including dry fires. 
If the trigger starts to seem lighter or softer than usual, replace the trigger spring immediately as it is about to break. This would be a good time to replace the FP spring and recoil springs too.
Avoid marathon shooting sessions and overly hot ammo - the springs fatigue due to overwork.

You can buy from NAA or directly from Wolff who manufactures the springs for NAA.  They sell a "service pack" which includes every spring in the gun and can serve as an overhaul set.

The trigger spring in my personal opinion should have had two torsion coils, not one.  The additional coil would eliminate and replace function of the bend  where they break.  This is not going to change, so the next best thing is to replace them before they break.

If you shoot a lot, inspect your magazines once in a while, especially at the front.  Several of mine cracked due to a sharp edge on the feed ramp that drove into the magazine during the little blowback's violent recoil.  After I discovered this I filed it smooth and never had a damaged magazine again.  Threw those mags out - I think they were causing ejection of live rounds. 

Just as a point of comparison - My venerable Ruger LCP has twice broken the takedown pin retaining spring.  These little pocket rockets are not service guns :)

And enjoy with a very fun and challenging little 32 :)




geaux

I just replaced this spring so I thought I would throw in my two cents. Mine is new from 2020. Got snap caps as a good boy should but dry fired it like a maniac and drawbar spring broke. Think snapping it fast and prolonged did the trick. Not really natural behavior and stressed it too much. Lessons learned.

Replacing the spring was not too bad but maybe it is just me but not as easy as the kind write up above. I took the cover all the way off. always hate c clips but oh well. Put the screw through the loop and tightened it up. Had to use pliers to put the hook into the itty bitty hole. First observation is I tested it and to my dismay the trigger would not reset. The hook part of the trigger would slip past the hammer and not reset. I guess I am saying the right parts. ANYWAY when you put the slide back on that goes away. Pull trigger click it resets happily. This boy yells awesome, DONE, and put the grip back on and inserted the magazine. Pull the trigger and it did not reset! Take the magazine out and it resets!! WHAT???? So I take the grip back off, left the magazine in. Loosen the screw and it reset with the magazine in. Kept testing until I had the screw tightened up but it would still reset with the magazine in. Goldilock stuff, just right. So what I am saying is test the trigger with the magazine in before you put the grip back on and tighten or loosen the screw is the trick.

Also in some threads some say their magazines drop free and others do not. With the original spring mags dropped free but with this new spring it does not. When I put the magazine in I can feel it making contact with the new drawbar spring but reading that just seems to be ok with these Guardians and Seacamps as long as they don't impede the magazine. If it does adjust it so it doesn't happen other wise you will jam in a magazine and break the spring? Seems it would be more prone with the Seacamp design since it has extra loops, thicker in the magazine well, at the stress point where the spring flexes.

Probably my imagination after the trauma of my pretty little gun stopped functioning but I swear with the new spring the trigger pull feels lighter and there is a more pronounced reset click.


bill_deshivs

Let's take a piece of wire-say-a piece of coat hanger:
Keep bending it in the same spot several times and quickly feel that spot. Hot, isn't it?
Same thing happens with some springs in guns if you dry fire them rapidly and repeatedly.

flash

Still no issue with the springs in my AA numbered 32 ACP Guardian.  FWIW I have deep cleaned the gun a few times and never had an issue with removing the drawbar spring or the e-clip.

But I did finally break down and buy the Wolff spring kit. 

Better to have and not need, than need and not have.

geaux

The old two is one and one is none law reared it's wise head. Sigh the drawbar spring I just put in broke.  Yes I have been dry firing but not going nuts like I did before. More slow and responsible I swear. Maybe I didn't seat the spring right because it was dragging on the magazine. This new replacement the magazine drops free so that much is better. Not total waste of time because I found my stainless grease and gave the trigger and hammer good dosages.


dlstanf2

My drawbar spring broke in almost the same and same way with a little hook on the broken end.  Almost as if it were twisted.

jennflip

  On my Cz po1 omega when new and dry firing multiple times the trigger spring broke and I realized it was probably from heat fatigue as I was not aiming and firing I was fast firing (double action)to break things in---- so I stopped that....

Wumbey Goomba

I don't dry fire ever.

Never had a spring break(just saying).