Painting stainless steel?

ApacheDan · March-08-22 18:03

Hi guys....wonder if anybody painted their SS guns? I got a SS Black Widow, which I'm thinking of painting. I know that paint does not stick well to stainless or chrome. Just ordered etching prime paint and will use Ceracote or Duracote over the prime. I'm going to try first with my Jericho 9mm finished in brushed chrome over steel. Nothing wrong with the stainless finish, but prefer black or blue. Anybody tried gun painting?

heyjoe · March-11-22 11:03

take some before and after photos. let us know how it goes!

bearcatter · March-11-22 11:03

Paint or Cerakote stainless steel? Sounds weird to me, sorry!

I had a great uncle who moved into a nice redwood sided house. He painted it white.

bill_deshivs · March-11-22 12:03

Painting stainless guns makes as much sense as painting a brick house.
Painting a plated gun makes even less sense.
The "gun paints" require a bead-blasted finish to properly adhere, and they advise Parkerizing as an undercoat.
You are about to ruin your plated gun, and put a very inferior finish on your stainless one.
Save the paints for carbon steel guns, and apply them properly.

ApacheDan · March-11-22 19:03

Well guys, I guess the idea is not so popular....but I'll try it anyways. Bottom line, it is my gun, I pay for it. It is mine to play with. Like I said, I'll try with my Jericho first and post pics. For those interested, preparation is important. Need to get the paint something to grab to...so I'm working with steel wool and then finish it with 120 sandpaper. The primer I'll use is Eastwood commercial etching primer. Will heat the metal first. No need for all of this, but to me it is more of an experiment and a hobby. Check out YouTube...plenty of folks doing the same thing.

bill_deshivs · March-14-22 12:03

Some people have to pee on the electric fence to learn.

Rick_Jorgenson · March-14-22 12:03

Quote from: ApacheDan on March-11-22 19:03
Well guys, I guess the idea is not so popular....but I'll try it anyways. Bottom line, it is my gun, I pay for it. It is mine to play with. Like I said, I'll try with my Jericho first and post pics. For those interested, preparation is important. Need to get the paint something to grab to...so I'm working with steel wool and then finish it with 120 sandpaper. The primer I'll use is Eastwood commercial etching primer. Will heat the metal first. No need for all of this, but to me it is more of an experiment and a hobby. Check out YouTube...plenty of folks doing the same thing.

Do post some photos. It will be interesting to see how it goes

Maybe some photos of the preparation steps?

I'm looking at doing my AR 15 in Camo, just because I think it looks cool!

And looks even better as it wears off in places

Lots of you tube vids on the rifle painting as well

OV-1D · March-14-22 14:03

Well if he insists just remember surface preparation is key along with type of paint . All your doing is lowering the price of the gun but you'll be pleased I suppose ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, till it chips .

tinhorn · March-14-22 17:03

Isn't there a way to blue or otherwise stain it without painting? Someday I hope to acquire one of those 1858-looking Earls to hang on the wall alongside the carbine, the hogleg, the 6-1/2" belt gun, the short-barreled Sheriff, and the Pocket Remington. Thing is, those other guns are all blued so the stainless NAA would look out of place. I haven't researched it yet but I'm hoping I'll be able to match my "future" Earl to the blued ones.

I've never had much luck painting metals that aren't agreeable to being painted, such as aluminum, galvanized, or stainless.

bearcatter · March-15-22 14:03

I've heard of something that supposedly blackens stainless, but actually just gives it a gray tint. Can't remember a name.

RogueTS1 · March-15-22 15:03

QuoteI'm looking at doing my AR 15 in Camo, just because I think it looks cool! And looks even better as it wears off in places

If these are for a fighting rifle do not concern yourself with surface prepping. Just make sure no excessive lube is on said surfaces and break out the spray cans. Just make sure to use Krylon instead of Rustoleum. Rustoleum will stick very well to the metal bits but will leave the plastic and rubber bits tacky feeling forever. Krylon will stick, without tackiness once it has dried, to both the metal and plastic/rubber bits.

The AR's have been painted and run hard for quite a few years now without a touch up. They just look better with a little wear on them. When it starts to wear off a little too much, simply break out the cans again and without prepping just touch them up a tad.

ApacheDan · March-15-22 16:03

Quote from: tinhorn on March-14-22 17:03
Isn't there a way to blue or otherwise stain it without painting? Someday I hope to acquire one of those 1858-looking Earls to hang on the wall alongside the carbine, the hogleg, the 6-1/2" belt gun, the short-barreled Sheriff, and the Pocket Remington. Thing is, those other guns are all blued so the stainless NAA would look out of place. I haven't researched it yet but I'm hoping I'll be able to match my "future" Earl to the blued ones.

I've never had much luck painting metals that aren't agreeable to being painted, such as aluminum, galvanized, or stainless.

You are probably thinking of blackening or blueing steel with a torch. It works, but the problem is that most quality guns are made of tempered steel and extreme heat can change the specs of the steel, rendering it not safe. Most cold blueing products won't work with any steel with a finish on top, such as stainless or chrome. Hence painting, some of which requires heating to 350 F in an oven without problems.

bearcatter · March-15-22 16:03

I used Cherry Red Krylon on my house shutters, front door, and my black car's wheel covers! Worked good, it's still good after 20 years on the house, and 15 on the car (except a few curb scrapes). Italian Olive Krylon on some GI ammo cans I repainted. I washed everything good first, and primered over the original colors. Didn't primer the GI cans, but they are holding up fine.

ApacheDan · March-15-22 16:03

Quote from: OV-1D on March-14-22 14:03
Well if he insists just remember surface preparation is key along with type of paint . All your doing is lowering the price of the gun but you'll be pleased I suppose ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, till it chips .

I feel you...I like stainless too, but not in all my guns. I think a gun used for defense has a tactical advantage over a shiny stainless one....specially in the middle of the night.

Texduk3 · March-15-22 17:03

what kind of car ?

bearcatter · March-15-22 18:03

It's the original version of the Scion xB, 2004-2006. Mine is a 2005. Hard to find a good photo, they're all loaded with custom junk. Mine is stock except the wheel covers. Just picture this black with the same covers painted red. I was inspired by a black '32 Ford with red wheels.

Rick_Jorgenson · March-15-22 21:03

Quote from: RogueTS1 on March-15-22 15:03
QuoteI'm looking at doing my AR 15 in Camo, just because I think it looks cool! And looks even better as it wears off in places

If these are for a fighting rifle do not concern yourself with surface prepping. Just make sure no excessive lube is on said surfaces and break out the spray cans. Just make sure to use Krylon instead of Rustoleum. Rustoleum will stick very well to the metal bits but will leave the plastic and rubber bits tacky feeling forever. Krylon will stick, without tackiness once it has dried, to both the metal and plastic/rubber bits.

The AR's have been painted and run hard for quite a few years now without a touch up. They just look better with a little wear on them. When it starts to wear off a little too much, simply break out the cans again and without prepping just touch them up a tad.

Your painted rifle pictures are what inspired me to paint mine! Glad you mentioned the Krylon, I know Rustoleum sticks well (so I would of used that first) I didn't know about the stickiness on rubber and plastic!

Thanks for the tip!