Hammer design change?

Started by Gunznknives, April-14-22 10:04

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Gunznknives

Hi guys,

I see that there are two different hammer designs for the 22 magnums, possibly other models too. Maybe one is a newer design to improve light hammer strikes, I don't know?

Look at the "blade" portion of the hammer in the photos. I just thought it was interesting. Does anyone have any info regarding this?

The top photo is from a late model Pug and the bottom photo is a late model Black Widow...


bill_deshivs

The pin in the first picture has been gunsmithed to reduce the surface area that it strikes- to ensure more reliable ignition.
The bottom picture is as-manufactured.

Gunznknives

Quote from: bill_deshivs on April-14-22 11:04
The pin in the first picture has been gunsmithed to reduce the surface area that it strikes- to ensure more reliable ignition.
The bottom picture is as-manufactured.

They are both factory new. I've seen both type hammers on Black Widows on dealer's shelves. I can't figure out why some have them and some don't other than maybe they're transitioning.

theysayimnotme

My Black Widow is fairly old as it came with the old-style cylinder pin & it has the bottom type hammer.

tinhorn

Quote from: bill_deshivs on April-14-22 11:04
The pin in the first picture has been gunsmithed to reduce the surface area that it strikes- to ensure more reliable ignition.

Wait a sec.... so if I trim a little off the hammer, the effect will be stronger strikes?

The reason this intrigues me is because 1) my NAA is a real thumb-buster, and 2) when I load the cylinder with used shells for dry firing (shells having been fired in a Ruger Wrangler), the NAA absolutely crushes the brass--much strikes stronger than the Ruger.

So if 1) the NAA hits harder than the Ruger, and 2) by trimming the hammer, the NAA would hit even harder yet, could I then 3) lighten the mainspring to cock the NAA easier? Man, this is worth sacrificing a few springs in the name of Scientific Research.

OLD and GRUMPY

Does your thumb hurt or just the pad gets raw?  I do thumb exercises. Build up a callus. 
Death before Decaf !!!!!

tinhorn

Hahahaha! Summer is approaching; perhaps I can work on that.

heyjoe

for overall hand strength use a church key. open bottle, drink , repeat as needed
It's too bad that our friends cant be here with us today

theysayimnotme

Quote from: tinhorn on April-15-22 19:04
Quote from: bill_deshivs on April-14-22 11:04
The pin in the first picture has been gunsmithed to reduce the surface area that it strikes- to ensure more reliable ignition.

Wait a sec.... so if I trim a little off the hammer, the effect will be stronger strikes?

The reason this intrigues me is because 1) my NAA is a real thumb-buster, and 2) when I load the cylinder with used shells for dry firing (shells having been fired in a Ruger Wrangler), the NAA absolutely crushes the brass--much strikes stronger than the Ruger.

So if 1) the NAA hits harder than the Ruger, and 2) by trimming the hammer, the NAA would hit even harder yet, could I then 3) lighten the mainspring to cock the NAA easier? Man, this is worth sacrificing a few springs in the name of Scientific Research.

Look at the above picture of both ends of the church key. The SAME effort applied over a smaller surface has much more effect.

Canoeal

JTM, that top hammer looks like it was modified. Either to let the hammer close,  when in the slot, or because of too many dry firings. My BW is six or seven years old my Wasp is newer. The hammer in my Wasp was replaced with a solid hammer. Both are like the bottom picture.
"All it takes for evil to prevail, is for good men to do nothing."  Edmund Burke

Gunznknives

These probably are modified but they're being modified at the factory. Maybe fine tuned by hand, if you will, like how they set timing in production.

Here's another one I found yesterday out in the wild on the dealer's shelf. He said they got it in last Wed. This one is not as pronounced as the Pug, but it's there.


Rimfire

I mainly want to reply so I can try posting a pic, but here?s the hammer on my Sidewinder which I bought new last month. Looks pretty vanilla to me?
Deplorable before deplorable was cool.

tinhorn

Looks like it's time to break out the needle files, Rimfire.

Gunznknives

#13
Quote from: Rimfire on April-25-22 11:04
I mainly want to reply so I can try posting a pic, but here?s the hammer on my Sidewinder which I bought new last month. Looks pretty vanilla to me?

That's the way most of them are that I've seen. My Pug has the "modified" hammer, but my Black Widow came with a hammer like yours. Neither had a problem firing off rounds...no failure to fire in either one.
 

Gnomie

I just got one of my two Minis back from the factory for a re-crown and it has the notched hammer as in the OP top picture. I don't recall what it looked like before I sent it in.   

My other Mini (as yet unfired) has the square-bottom shape as in the OP bottom picture, and the hammer does not sit fully flush in the safety notch as a result.  Both are within 40 serial numbers of each other.  Depending upon how my 2nd one fires, I may send it back for a re-crown and ask them to bevel the bottom of the hammer.  On the other hand, it looks like a simple modification I could do myself with a small hand file. 

Props to NAA customer service!  They adjusted my first revolver and timed a new LR conversion cartridge within 3 and 1/2 weeks. 

Can't wait to test them both out at the range :)

Gnomie

Not the best photos, but the black-handled has the hammer bevel, the snake-handled does not.  You can see the difference in the gap when the hammer is in the safety slot.