Dry Fire best practices

[SmallPackages]

I understand that with revolvers like the PUG, NAA recommends removing the cylinder to dry fire.

I have noticed some users prefer to use drywall bits or used .22 brass.

I am wondering what the best options are for dry firing the new Sentinel. Removing the cylinder seems a bit of a hassle.

[naaadmin]

Even though the cylinder stays attached for reload, you can still remove it. This is what makes it possible to switch from Magnum to LR. Our gunsmith recommends popping the screw out so you can do dry firing you need without damaging the gun.

[SmallPackages]

Thank you for the quick response!

One thing I appreciate about revolvers is that dry fire is so easy. It is administratively easy to clear a revolver, you don't need to do resets, all trigger pulls are consistent, etc.

Using your gunsmith's recommendation, how much wear can the screw and screw hole sustain?  What I mean is, if you are going to dry fire for a few minutes each day but also carry daily, this is a lot of wear on a part presumably not designed for so much use.

Also, I have metal dummy rounds and could also use dry wall bits or spent brass. Does your gunsmith discourage this practice?  If so, what is the reason behind it.

Thank you for considering my questions.

And if any users have practical experience with dry firing NAA revolvers, I would love to hear about your experience.

[bill_deshivs]

Gunsmith recommendation or not-

Slamming two pieces of steel together repeatedly will (not can) cause either deformation of the steel and/or embrittlement of the steel. Neither is good-especially on a tiny gun with little mass to absorb the shock.

Either use dedicated snap caps or fired cartridges-turned to a new spot for the firing pin to hit each time you dry fire.

Using drywall anchors offers virtually no resistance to the firing pin, as it simply penetrates the soft plastic.

Removing the cylinder does nothing to prevent the hammer hitting the frame- which is where damage will occur.

I probably have more gunsmithing and metal working experience than most of your gunsmiths.

[SmallPackages]

Gunsmith recommendation or not-

Slamming two pieces of steel together repeatedly will (not can) cause either deformation of the steel and/or embrittlement of the steel. Neither is good-especially on a tiny gun with little mass to absorb the shock.

Either use dedicated snap caps or fired cartridges-turned to a new spot for the firing pin to hie each time you dry fire.

Using drywall anchors offers virtually no resistance to the firing pin, as it simply penetrates the soft plastic.

Removing the cylinder does nothing to prevent the hammer hitting the frame- which is where damage will occur.

I probably have more gunsmithing and metal working experience than most of your gunsmiths.

I appreciate you taking the time to explain this.

Thank you.

[Anvil]

I have found these 22 MAG DUMMY'S to use when dry fireing.

[SmallPackages]

I have found these 22 MAG DUMMY'S to use when dry fireing.

I'm curious if @bill_deshivs or the NAA gunsmith have an opinion on this.

It is aluminum, but it has been anodized, which makes it harder. That means it will withstand more abuse but might also mean it absorbs less impact leading to the problems Bill Deshivs mentioned, but I have no way to know which side it falls on. Brass is more malleable.

[RogueTS1]

We have always just stuck to the old rule of "Do not dry fire Rimfire guns." Why tempt fate?

[camo]

I agree with you Rogue. No problem doing that way all these years. No use in changing now.

[bill_deshivs]

Anodization of aluminum only produces a hard surface, and it is very thin.
The hardness of the underlying aluminum is not affected.

[SmallPackages]

Anodization of aluminum only produces a hard surface, and it is very thin.
The hardness of the underlying aluminum is not affected.

Thank you for the informative response!