22mags Sticking in my Sidewinder

[Ruger]

My apologies to the original poster of this topic.  I have tried to figure out where I read of this problem before, but just could not find it. . . .

I find that 22Mag rounds consistently get stuck in my Sidewinder, where I can not use the extractor, but need to "poke out" each brass casing with a small poker.  They seem to swell so tight that the extractor is useless.  I have tried different ammo brands, but all seem to result in the same thing.

I had read in an older thread where others were experiencing the same problem.  It was recommended that one should run steel wool gently thru the cylinder chambers to open them up just slightly.  I tried this but found no real improvement.

Should my wonderful little Sidewinder be sent back to the Factory for a fix, or continue the gentle honing of the cylinders with 0000 steel wool?

[OV-1D]

 My humble opinion is no matter how much the cylinder is honed the casings will continue to expand and follow the sizing . Freedom Arms , the original maker of these mini's , sold their rights off back in 1990 , found that going to the magnum cartridge from L.R. created the same problems as everyone has with these mini guns with expansion and they had only four shot cylinders . I've said before rifle ammo , which these magnums are , have no business in these extra small pieces . Just because it can shoot them should they be is the question . A super high polished surface on the interior of the cylinder is your only recourse to help minimally otherwise switch to your  l.r. cylinder for a better shooting experience . 100 % fix is not there .

[tranquilo]

Ruger, I had the same problem with my Sidewinder; called NAA customer service, spoke also with their gunsmith, sent the gun to them, got it back quickly, problem solved.  I'm sure they'll do the same for you.

[Ruger]

OV - Life rarely provides 100% fixes, but I don't disagree with your comments.
T - I.ve heard others say the NAA customer service is fast.  I'm not in a hurry, but pursuing an improvement just needs to be in my future.

Thanks to both.

[Uncle_Lee]

The 0000 steel wool is not to expand the chamber but to polish it.

[Django2442]

First let me say I am by no means an expert, but I can offer you a few things to try before you ship your firearm back to NAA. The first is the easiest switch ammo, it could be as simple as that, 2nd give the cylinder a real good cleaning, both my magnum and lr cylinders came extremely dirty with major burn rings on the cylinder face and cone, the first thing I do with any new firearm is take it home strip it and clean before first shooting secession, with my Sidewinder I did a real quick cleaning not a great cleaning because I was going right out to shoot, well after 5 rounds (with the LR cylinder) the cylinder was locking up and rounds would not extract, I worked through it a few more rounds and then switched to the magnum thinking I'll have similar results, which I did not, so at first I thought it was the ammo or maybe the lr cylinder, but I was using cci so I was skeptical it was the ammo. I then did a complete thorough cleaning, I figured small firearm, small tolerances, easy to bind, after the cleaning zero issues with binding and brass swelling. The 3rd thing are you firing through a cylinder that is oiled?, revolvers should be fired dry, oil can cause hydraulic pressure and the spent brass to swell inside the cylinder. 4th with the tolerances of the Sidewinder the cylinder needs to be positioned just right to extract the rounds, if it's not in the sweet spot, the case of one round will hit the shield and not allow any rounds to be extracted using the star. Since I addressed these simply fixes the Sidewinder has been trouble free.  Since the first shooting session I've put 150 magnum rounds through it with zero issues, and 300 rounds of long rifle with the only issues being the very first time I shot it without a thorough cleaning, hope this helps.

[MtGoat]

First let me say I am by no means an expert, but I can offer you a few things to try before you ship your firearm back to NAA. The first is the easiest switch ammo, it could be as simple as that, 2nd give the cylinder a real good cleaning, both my magnum and lr cylinders came extremely dirty with major burn rings on the cylinder face and cone, the first thing I do with any new firearm is take it home strip it and clean before first shooting secession, with my Sidewinder I did a real quick cleaning not a great cleaning because I was going right out to shoot, well after 5 rounds (with the LR cylinder) the cylinder was locking up and rounds would not extract, I worked through it a few more rounds and then switched to the magnum thinking I'll have similar results, which I did not, so at first I thought it was the ammo or maybe the lr cylinder, but I was using cci so I was skeptical it was the ammo. I then did a complete thorough cleaning, I figured small firearm, small tolerances, easy to bind, after the cleaning zero issues with binding and brass swelling. The 3rd thing are you firing through a cylinder that is oiled?, revolvers should be fired dry, oil can cause hydraulic pressure and the spent brass to swell inside the cylinder. 4th with the tolerances of the Sidewinder the cylinder needs to be positioned just right to extract the rounds, if it's not in the sweet spot, the case of one round will hit the shield and not allow any rounds to be extracted using the star. Since I addressed these simply fixes the Sidewinder has been trouble free.  Since the first shooting session I've put 150 magnum rounds through it with zero issues, and 300 rounds of long rifle with the only issues being the very first time I shot it without a thorough cleaning, hope this helps.

This is a good reminder.
Do the simple things first.
Thoroughly clean the gun then try it again.
That reminds me I should thoroughly clean my gun....it has been carried on several hikes in a new holster in my pocket.
It should get cleaned up and lubricated in all of the right spots.

Of course since I am new to the NAA minis, it should be unloaded and handled some more to get the operation down pat.

The toughest parts is to NOT sweep your self with the barrel....danged little things...technique, technique, technique.

Pat

[Canoeal]

I would not use steel wool but rather polishing compound on a bore mop stuck in a drill driver on slow. That polishes them nicely, but don't get too aggressive. Just slow and a little bit at a time. Wipe it out with a clean set up.

[Ruger]

Thanks Django.  All good information.  I have been using CCI ammo, so, I too, did not think that the ammo was the issue.  I keep my toys extremely clean; sometimes too clean (you know, five shots down range, clean the weapon before it is returned to the safe).  I don't think it is an oil issue, but I sure will be sure of that next time it rotates up for a range trip.

But I wanted to comment about the "Sweet Spot" you mentioned.  This was discussed a few months ago on another thread.  I, too, found that my Sidewinder crane did not lower enough to allow casings to be extracted without being rotated into the "Sweet Spot".  Comments from others were that the EB Sidewinders did not have that issue.  Upon further examination, I found that if I removed a VERY small amount of the frame at the bottom of the crane pivot slot, it allowed the crane to fully lower to 90° so that a "Sweet Spot" was no longer an issue.  I used small needle files to remove a tiny amount of material, and finished the removal spot with a polishing compound.  It looks factory fresh and works great, for both the LR and Mag cylinders.  Now if I can just get those dang Mag casings to fly out like the LRs . . . . .