That's exactly how I carry my EDC, either Sidewinder or Ranger II.  Even the bedside j-frame has one round of snake shot up first.

Quote from: PaducahMichael on May-15-18 08:05

Quote from: bleak_window on May-15-18 07:05
That's probably the best thing about this forum.  The testosterone-fueled debates don't apply when everyone is carrying a tiny .22.

A lot of us are so old that testosterone is a distant memory.

I'm getting my "T" with a patch now!

I like the little General needle oilers too.  I fill mine with Marvel Mystery oil.  Light, doesn't ever dry out and gum up, a tiny bit will creep into just where it's needed, smells good!

Quote from: Warty62 on May-03-18 01:05
Nice one JRobyn, I have one of those somewhere too.  When I first went to the hospital last time though my Dad thought the weaponry on display throughout my house was in bad taste.  He is old and can't remember where he put anything and I wasn't around so I don't know either.  I just know he didn't throw any of it away, just put it away.

I'm pretty sure I've told it somewhere on here before, but my Dad brought his back from WWII and it always lived on the mantle.  Was fascinating and beautiful to me in a macabre way.  I always assumed he would will it to me.  After he died, we found that several years prior he had sold it for about $100 to a local "Antiques Buyer".  His was one made earlier on in the war in Solingen and was very likely actually carried by a "Brown Shirt".  It was in 100% perfect condition except for a bent scabbard knob. 

I found the replacement from a local guy for a very good price.  It LOOKS identical, but this one was made in a German factory in India.  The demand for them as souvenirs from returning GIs kept them churning them out.

Quote from: CavScout on May-01-18 21:05

After I had to give up my Motorcycles, I went to UTV's to roam the back roads I grew up with.
I learned about using GPS enabled Tablets from a local UTV Group.
When I trail ride, I have my Tablet and Smart Phone, both loaded with GPS Mapping... and a Marbles Compass... just in case!

What a beautiful compass!

Just because Warty brought up daggers and Uncle Lee likes pics, here's my all-time favorite dagger....

Quote from: Canoeal on May-01-18 13:05
IDK, and I don't have one, but I think the breatops just scream for the boot grips (engraved of course).

You sure got that right!  The boot grips are not quite as good as the other oversized for improving grip, but the STYLE is just right!

I LOVE the (insert state code)DOT maps that are free from the welcome centers!  There's SO much information on them that I find them very entertaining dreaming about all those odd-sounding towns, parks, and "features"!

I'm sure there's a good reason that I'm just not seeing, but why are the "hammer cover" portions of your holsters so pronounced?  I would think that after a few years of daily carry, the inside edge of my jeans pockets would start to wear through.  Have you ever made any with the whole top frame/hammer side a little straighter?

I noticed *something* like that on my new RIIs (the Sidewinder uses the identical design, and I did NOT ever notice it on that).

I find it hard to believe that NAA would use an adhesive where this extremely critical part engages the cylinder bolt, BUT I also noticed on my RIIs that the little depression that the spring fits into is VERY shallow - like maybe only 0.020".  The "fit" between the very tip of the spring and the cylinder bolt has just GOT to move a little (IMHO), so I worry that the spring will inadvertently pop out of the recess.  In fact, this happened on one of my RIIs, rendering the cylinder bolt inoperable.  So how can adhesive hold that spring in there and still allow movement?

I wrote my concerns to Jessica and she promised to have the gunsmith review and comment.  That's been many weeks ago.

I've got a few 50 rnd boxes of Win Super-X that were probably manufactured in 2016/2017.  They appear to be nicely made and fit fine.

Wow!  That was a TOTAL rebuild!

Quote from: Mickey on April-05-18 18:04
Back on the first page somthing was said about the Pug not having a LR barrel for it. I talked with NAA and will drive by Provo next trip in that direction for a fitted LR barrel for $50 and about 30 mins of time if they are not backed up.

It's not the barrel, just the cylinder.  The bullet for .22LR and .22WMR are the same but the magnum cartridge is larger in both length and diameter.

You can sometimes do some impressive fire fighting with just a garden hose.

When I was a kid, we spent a few days with a work friend of my dad's down in Tampa.  He lived on an inland canal and had a beautiful 26ft ChrisCraft docked in his backyard.  The last night we were there, an arsonist who had been victimizing the area turned a 5 gal gas can upside down on the roof of that beauty and lit it.  The sound of the fire woke my sister just as it was getting really involved.  Dad played the garden hose back and forth over the twin 50 gal stern fuel tanks that we had just filled up that day on the way back in.  The boat was a total loss, but no fuel explosion.

Quote from: Canoeal on March-25-18 20:03
I am sorry for posting among the experts. I should not have gotten back on. It won't happen again.

Wow.  Me too Al.  Guess just being an engineer ain't quite up to the bar.

Quote from: bill_deshivs on March-25-18 13:03
Wall anchors do nothing to protect your firing pin. The hammer simply pierces them.
Use fired cases-turned to a fresh spot, or buy real snap caps.

And just where do you suppose the energy to "pierce" the anchor goes?  INTO THE ANCHOR.

Only if I reuse an anchor MANY times and/or fail to rotate it has the hammer ever actually cut all the way through an anchor.

Some minis, especially those with a little longer barrels and better sights are fun to plink with.  But I totally agree that if actually used in a real self-defense situation, sights will be meaningless.  Instinctive point and shoot. 

It's the main reason that I strongly prefer the BW/Secret Service/Oversized Rosewood grips - they all fit and fill the hand and naturally align the gun to point like your "pointer" finger.

I suspect that like every other firearm manufacturer, NAA is "sensitive" to (resists) any possible argument that their triggers should be lightened in any way.  I have certainly noticed that the newer models in my collection, the stiffer is the cocking and trigger pull.

That said, the way the main spring is assembled in NAAs should make it a really quick/simple/cheap local gunsmith job.  I believe that the side plate can stay in place (?)

Pretty sure that the ones that fit .22LR are #6.  I use the cheapo red ones from Harbor Freight and turn them every couple of hits.  NAA hammers hit with enough authority that a 1-2 dozen hits will tear off the rims! 

Quote from: dbrn on March-23-18 15:03
When you  refer  to  the hand, what are you talking  about.

It's the little "lever" that rises up from its slot in the back of the cylinder cutout in the frame. It's p/n 18 on your handy Ranger II Parts Breakdown Drawing.

In the attached photo, it is the flat "bar" just to the right of the cylinder pin hole.  This shows it retracted, as it will be at half-cock.  As you begin cocking, it will extend to engage the star on the cylinder, and simultaneously rise up to
rotate the cylinder.

I made some comments in the other thread.  BTW, another thing that can cause this is if the ejector/star does not completely seat back in its recess in the cylinder.  If it is sticking up even a little, it will hang up on the back of the frame when closed and prevent the cylinder from turning.  Both of mine had this problem.  I thoroughly cleaned and de-burred the stars and their recesses, and the star/ejector rod and it cured mine.  You can easily test this by completely removing the cylinder and pushing in the ejector rod, then let it gently return into the recess.  Does it fully seat? 

Quote from: BIGBEAR on March-22-18 19:03
on reply #5 on 21 mar 2018,
just got my new ranger 2 s/n btn00421,
are you haveing cocking issues ? i am.after closing , to cock hammer, i have to manually rotate cylinder.
after diong this once it will cock everytime untill i reload. hen i have to rotate cylinder again , while cocking the hammer.
whats wrong ?

It sounds like something is preventing the "hand" from rotating the cylinder quite far enough for the hammer to cock.  You can look (a magnifier can help) at both the hand and the "star" that the hand contacts on the back of the cylinder to see if there are any machining burrs you can clean up that might help.  With it unloaded, run it through a number of cycles while closely observing the hand and cylinder for any abnormalities.  If you don't find anything odd with this, there are probably some slight internal fitment issues that would be best for a return trip to NAA to resolve.

I remain convinced that almost all of the Ranger II problems have been due to "rough" machining of the cylinders/chambers, but that NAA has now (or is in the process of) corrected those issues with the mill and/or tooling.  IMHO, it may take another month or so for things to really totally smooth out.

Please leave the Timber Rattlers just a little space and they will do the same for you.  They're very timid.

Good for you Linux!  You are an inspiration.  I don't have a large collection of minis (5) but every single one had no evidence of any crown shaping/cleanup from the factory.  My hunch is that NAA considers these to be very short-range (belly) guns, so any extra effort/time/cost spent on accuracy enhancements is unnecessary.

But your experiment PROVES that just a very small amount of enhancement can have MAJOR impact.  I'll be doing all of mine.  Why not?  I splurged on one of the "special" conical brass burrs.  Set me back $7 including compound.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-original-Brass-muzzle-lapping-kit-rifle-pistol-barrel-lap-gunsmith-tool/132448339852?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

You are good to GO!

He is sure not having any accuracy or keyholing issues!!

Wonder what s/n he's got or if it was specially tuned by NAA?

Yours looks to be machined pretty smoothly, but no way to tell from the pic if the extractor is fully seated.

While watching TV, open the Ranger action just until it begins to cam up the extractor, then close slightly.  Now from this configuration push the extractor nose in and out about 500 times.  If you notice any grittiness, or if the extractor does not FULLY seat every time when you release pressure on the nose, you've found your problem.

Poke around on here a bit and you will find plenty of discussion of keyholing with most NAAs.  Carefully examine the crown of the muzzle on yours (the transition from the bore to the very end of the muzzle).  If it is not uniform, symmetrical, and free of any nicks or defects, it will greatly exacerbate keyholing.  The good news is that a trip back to NAA will have that fixed, usually at no cost and with shipping covered.

As noted, different ammo also sometimes fixes it.

I see that y'all finally arrived at the same conclusion that I did back on 2/27 in http://naaminis.com/smf/index.php?topic=14707.msg148368#msg148368  (post #47)

The proper tooling for re-crowning is quite expensive ($80-$150).  That said, I've just bought a really simple conical "burnisher" intended to be used with valve grinding compound (it came with some) for just $7.  I expect that it will only be good for where there's very minor imperfections.

For many years, I have REALLY liked GunSlik grease for any of those moving parts that don't need to move real fast and might be subject to significant loads.  It is a very light-bodied moly grease.  Stays where you put it.  Never hardens (at least not after several years).  The tiniest amount will do.

Quote from: redhawk4 on March-01-18 12:03

Quote from: Ruger on March-01-18 11:03

Quote from: RogueTS1 on March-01-18 10:03
This makes me wonder about his thumbing technique. This subject just made me question though; I wonder how the frame of the Ranger's would hold up to being carried in one's back pocket and being sat upon somewhat throughout the day. Anyone have any thoughts on said matter?

Yeah;  I don't sit on my gun.   

I don't believe in carrying a gun in a back pocket, given that where I'm from you'd be a fool to carry a wallet back there because it would be gone in heartbeat. I wouldn't want to feel something and turn around to see a thief holding my gun or even just lose it unknowingly to a criminal, so I won't be sitting on mine either.

Implying opening the BT action is inevitable when trying to cock the Ranger is rather like saying it's inevitable you'll release and drop your magazine from your pistol in the same circumstances.

Or that it's inevitable that the your thumb will slip off the hammer and the gun will accidentally discharge.

My 146 barrel latch is quite tight.  So much so that it is sometimes difficult to get it open or closed.  I am considering asking NAA to "adjust" it a bit.

145 opens and closes very smoothly with just modest force.

I like the way the BT and latch works.  If I have to develop a new skill to avoid the latch, I CAN DO THAT!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98nNpzE6gIs

(I did go to GT.)

Regarding the "weakness" of the frame, many folks reference the thin bottom frame profile and the wobble in the pivot.  I reiterate and invite you to closely examine just exactly how the barrel latch "dovetail" and latch lock up.  IMHO, this adds very considerable strength and rigidity.

Regarding reasons for the Ranger locking up, I attribute this to one or more of the following problems:

1) extractor star not seating fully in it's recess.
1a) dirty/crunchy extractor/cylinder stem either preventing the extractor from fully seating or the cylinder itself fully seating at the back of the frame.
1b) Inaccurate/rough machining of either/both the extractor star or it's recess.
1c) mis-alignment of the extractor star in it's recess (preventing seating).
2) cylinder just slightly too long for the frame it's fitted to.
3) fired cartridges backing up just slightly and then sticking in the chamber and contacting the back of the frame.

Any problem in category 1) can cause the cylinder to hang on the back of the frame.  The hand then cannot rotate the cylinder = hung up.  The hand is only able to apply a very small amount of rotational force to the cylinder.  When mine has hung, in most cases, if I "help" the cylinder to rotate a bit it will cycle and clear.  You can fix most of the potential issues in 1) with a deep cleaning, tiny touch=up with a jeweler's file, wire-brushing, and polishing.  For 1c), I still don't know exactly how the star is assembled to the stem, but I was able to easily re-align mine with gentle pressure from a needle-nose pliers spanning the star.

For 2), we all know that the tolerances for Rangers are extremely tight, right?  It is very likely to me that a cylinder selected by the smith at the factory for good fit can still subsequently cause hang-ups.  It appears that NAA fires them maybe 5-10 rounds (maybe less!).  Not really enough to heat anything up.  After you have gone to the range and fired yours 50 times, exactly what does the cylinder-frame and cylinder-barrel gap look like?  And both NAAs and .22 ammo are not exactly known for being very clean.  Just exactly how much powder and lead residue do you have on both the back of the cylinder and in the cylinder-barrel gap?  Maybe enough to restrict easy rotation?

Mild cases of 3) can sometimes be addressed by polishing the chambers. Anything more than mild, send it back.

Just some things to consider and maybe check/fix.

P.S. (just to make this even LONGER) - I did have the occurrence a few times of the cylinder not being locked in battery at full-cock by the cylinder bolt, traced back to the bolt spring being out-of-position.  I will attribute this to error on my part while cleaning and re-assembling.  BUT, be careful of this happening; it could possibly be dangerous.

I hope that my posts are not the ones that are considered whining.  If so, I apologize and will shut my yap.  I have tried to very objectively evaluate exactly what is taking place with the various problems reported and wherever possible offer potential resolutions.

It is my opinion that a large majority of the problems are due to the cylinder assembly, which I'm pretty sure that NAA obtained from a vendor.  IF that's the case, then NAA likely didn't have appropriate tooling in-house at first to address any issues.  From one "repair returned" post on here saying that NAA re-reamed the cylinder, that is evidently now no longer the case.  When problems began to show up, production was halted, I assume to either fix cylinder assemblies on-hand, send them back to the vendor, or wait for better replacements.  Maybe all of the above.  But I can also see how NAA still tried to keep SOME production going by the assemblers being more picky about which cylinders they used out of existing stock.  It seems that some rough ones still got through.  I can't explain why some of the problems were not identified at the factory with test firing, except maybe some very unique ammo at NAA.