Do New Minis Come With Cosmoline?

Gun1 · March-08-22 11:03

I'm wondering, do new minis come with cosmoline, or something that can look like rust when it dries? I have a mini that I stored for about 7 years. I remember that when I got it it had noticeable oil, but it was clear. Today, I looked at it and from the outside and it still looks pristine, except with no more liquid oil. However, in the L shape where the bottom of the frame and the back of the frame meet, there'sa littlebit that looks like rust. Since new I recall it had what looked like metal dust, but attached to the frame, it couldn't be dusted off, but it did look like leftover metal from milling the cylinder housing onto the frame, but it couldn't really be dusted off, I guess it had to be polished off.
Since it was stored for so long I'm not sure if it is rust that developed or if it's a dried preservative. Thanks

top dog · March-08-22 16:03

Gun1,
None of the minis I have purchased came packed in grease.

Some oils (not all) will congeal over lengthy storage periods depending on how the piece is stored.

Try some Hoppes #9 or any other gun solvent of your choice with a nylon bristle brush and it should remove the debris.

More than likely there will be no rust.

A few years ago, I took my friend's Model 94 which had been purchased new back in the late 50s to be cleaned. The gun had never been out of the box. Back then most guns came with grease in the barrel from the factory.

This grease was a solid mass and I could not even operate the lever as everything was seized solid.

I applied some penetrating oil and let it sit for several hours and got things working. There wasn't any rust.

Hope all works out well.

Top Dog

Gun1 · March-09-22 05:03

Yeah, I thought about it being congealed grease or oil, but besides remembering that the original oil was clear, the mini is dry now. I took a better look in the sunlight today and it apoears that there's just a tiny speck of rust color in the 90? angle where the bottom of the frame meets the back of the frame. I recall since I got it that it looked like these was some leftover dust metal from milling the cylinder hile in that area, but I couldn't dust it off, I just it has to be polished off. Well that metal dust, some of it actually looks to have turned into rust. It won't come off with regular solvent, so I'm guessing it is rust? Although it's pnly a very small spec.
But I'm wondering, did it rust because it was leftover metal powder, or can it also extend further into the gun?

top dog · March-09-22 07:03

Gun1,
I doubt if there is any further rust.

To safely remove the speck of rust,try using JB Bore compound which is a very fine compound and should not harm the gun's finish.

Or maybe Happich Semichrome with very fine 0000 steel wool.

If still in doubt,call NAA and see what they say. Their customer service is superb.

Top Dog

Bj · March-09-22 08:03

I used a liquid ?Evapo-Rust? non-toxic, non-corrosive rust cleaner on a badly rusted hatchet lost outside a few years that worked very well. Somewhere on this forum are pictures.

https://naaminis.com/smf/index.php?topic=15945.msg163840#msg163840

heyjoe · March-09-22 09:03

Quote from: Bj on March-09-22 08:03
I used a liquid ?Evapo-Rust? non-toxic, non-corrosive rust cleaner on a badly rusted hatchet lost outside a few years that worked very well. Somewhere on this forum are pictures.

https://naaminis.com/smf/index.php?topic=15945.msg163840#msg163840

what is the notch in the hatchet blade for? to pull nails?

bearcatter · March-09-22 12:03

To see the hatchet you have to back up one page and scroll almost to the bottom:

https://naaminis.com/smf/index.php?topic=15945.105

Looks good!

Bj · March-09-22 12:03

Quote from: heyjoe on March-09-22 09:03
Quote from: Bj on March-09-22 08:03
I used a liquid ?Evapo-Rust? non-toxic, non-corrosive rust cleaner on a badly rusted hatchet lost outside a few years that worked very well. Somewhere on this forum are pictures.

https://naaminis.com/smf/index.php?topic=15945.msg163840#msg163840

what is the notch in the hatchet blade for? to pull nails?

I guess the notch would be to pull nails, I didn?t even remember that it was there. I see it is not in the new one.

Canoeal · March-09-22 13:03

Axe used to do fencing...

ralphwolf · March-09-22 18:03

and to do roofing.

Uncle_Lee · March-10-22 04:03

Yes, to pull nails.
But if the pull is hard, the handle will break. Been there, done that.

OV-1D · March-10-22 07:03

If I'm not mistaken the piece is for wood shingles (shaping and sizing) or thatched (trimming and cleaning unwanted material) roofing and of course the nail removal notch and probably good for wood fencing also . Just a guess on its use . Did the axe have a hammer edge on its other side ?

Bj · March-10-22 08:03

Quote from: OV-1D on March-10-22 07:03
If I'm not mistaken the piece is for wood shingles (shaping and sizing) or thatched (trimming and cleaning unwanted material) roofing and of course the nail removal notch and probably good for wood fencing also . Just a guess on its use . Did the axe have a hammer edge on its other side ?

Rectangular long flat hammer part.

Uncle_Lee · March-11-22 07:03

The tool used for making wood shingles is called a froe.
When I was little, I watched my dad and my uncle make shingles for our house.
You started with a block of wood and split it in the middle, take one of the halves and split it in the middle, then one of those pieces and split it in the middle.
Continue splitting one half of what you just split until you split the last piece making two shingles.

When you used the froe, the handle was vertical with the head down against the block of wood and you hammered it in with a wooden mallet.

My dad's froe went in the auction when I moved to town.

heyjoe · March-11-22 11:03

Quote from: uncle_lee on March-11-22 07:03
The tool used for making wood shingles is called a froe.
When I was little, I watched my dad and my uncle make shingles for our house.
You started with a block of wood and split it in the middle, take one of the halves and split it in the middle, then one of those pieces and split it in the middle.
Continue splitting one half of what you just split until you split the last piece making two shingles.

When you used the froe, the handle was vertical with the head down against the block of wood and you hammered it in with a wooden mallet.

My dad's froe went in the auction when I moved to town.

i've seen one of them before but i didnt know what it was for

top dog · March-12-22 07:03

Uncle Lee,
The wood used mostly to make the shingles and shakes was Cedar as it split readily and was long lasting for the intended use.

Years ago (many) I saw a bench/seat system that used leg power to split the wood on a mounted froe.

Top Dog

Uncle_Lee · March-12-22 08:03

Yes, cedar lasts a long time. We used them for fence posts also.

OV-1D · March-12-22 09:03

Quote from: top dog on March-12-22 07:03
Uncle Lee,
The wood used mostly to make the shingles and shakes was Cedar as it split readily and was long lasting for the intended use.

Years ago (many) I saw a bench/seat system that used leg power to split the wood on a mounted froe.

Top Dog

Bug resistent also .

top dog · March-13-22 06:03

I don't know if they are still made now,but I remember wooden coat hangers made out of cedar to repel moths in the closet.

Top Dog