Backporch:  Wow, 100 yards?  I'm doing well to get 8" at 100 FEET.  Maybe I'll have to give it a try...

Don't forget to blue loctite the thread protector on a P22 if you ever remove it.

Crap, meant to add that adding a flash suppressor can increase cycling reliability when using the short barrel.  Ah well.  HERE YA GO!

naa_coll;  No problem, glad to help.

   

   Most folks I've talked to who complain about the P22 sold/gotridof theirs before getting a few hundred rounds through it.  Early versions DID have lots of problems, and I think the consumers have been incredibly slow to forgive... even if the old problems are currently fixed.  At least, they seemed to be in mine.

Naa_Coll; I have the Walther accessory laser as well.  It's "right handed only," you switch it on and off with the tip of your right index finger while holding it.  I like it a lot and think it adds to the pistol.

   

   If you're interested in P22 "toys," consider this:

   http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/GNS057-1.html">http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/GNS057-1.html

   

   It's an adaptor to take the factory threads (don't forget your barrel is threaded with a thread protector unless you got in in California)

   

   This adaptor takes the barrel to "standard" 1/2"x28tpi.  Now you can take a flash suppressor intended for say... an AR-15/5.56 and install in on your P22.  This is also for suppressors with that thread pitch.

   

   

   Last thing:  My favorite P22 ammos:

   

   1. CCI Stinger

   2. Remington Yellow Jacket

   3. Winchester SuperX (silver box) High velocity round nose.

   4. Federal Automatch (it's cheap, bulk pack, and doesn't seem to FTF on me.)

   

   I, personally, have not had hollow point feed issues (AFTER THE BREAK IN), but your mileage may vary.

Walther P22 here, bought it new.

   

   Lurking forums taught me that you must use "B" series or later magazines.  Avoid "A" series and magazines numbers starting with no letter.

   

   The short barrel is the one with the cycling issues, while the longer barrel "works better."

   

   Ignore failures to cycle until the pistol has a few hundred through it.  Use hyper velocity for break-in and "high velocity" after that.

   

   Federal "Automatch" bulk .22lr cycles my P22 just fine (after break-in, it didn't want to cycle the first three rounds out of a full magazine at first.)

   

   Also, I have read that if you buy a current production model that you AVOID ALL OF THE PROBLEMS people complain about with a P22.  Mine's pretty new.

   

   There is an online document called "The P22 Bible" that details all of the mods to bring a "first edition" p22 up to current standards.  Mine had an outstanding single action trigger out of the box. (double action smooths up only if you fire double action.)

   

   Good luck.  I enjoy the crap out of my P22.

Sounds weird, but if you make a point to press and release evenly at the same speed and rate, you'll find this improves your trigger control. Same

   Speed for press and release.

   

   The trigger lightens up and smooths out a lot in the first 300 rounds. At least mine did.

Antares;  The left-handed issue only happens when you're crowding the pistol too close to the palm of your hand, the lever catches on your hand during recoil.  IMHO, I shot better with the pistol more centered in the hand and avoided the "RECOIL DISASSEMBLY" method.

   

   HOWEVER, the Taurus PLY *does* have the "fastest field strip in the business" if you shoot it left-handed a certain way.

   

   As far as my frame rails holding up?  Yeah, I was worried about that.  It seems that "recoil disassembly method" plays hell on them.  Normal shooting doesn't seem to do much of anything.  I've got maybe 3k rounds of .22lr and another 1k or so of shorts through it.  Normal wear seems barely noticable, but I have never shot hyper velocity through it.

   

   There is a plastic recoil buffer that is pressed into the slide.  I was worried about it wearing out and read of people ordering a handful of them.  Mine looks about like it did new.

   

   Also, the "extractor" will never wear out as there isn't one (at least on the .22 model, don't know if the .25 has an extractor or not.)

   

   Your mileage may vary, offer void in California where some restrictions may apply.

Naa_coll; The Taurus PLY frame is wide as hell since they've gone to the wraparound grip for shootability reasons.

   

   Double action trigger starts off kinda gritty, but mine worked in beautifully after a couple hundred rounds.

   

   Shootability is good for such a small piece.  I hit aerosol cans at 10 paces consistently.  I have to aim a touch low, as mine tends to hit high.

   

   I've taken small game with mine.

agreeing on the handiness, coinchop.  My favorite feature of that tip-up barrel in my 22PLY is shooting shorts one-at-a-time.  Then again, I'm a weirdo.

Antares, I have that exact Taurus PLY, but mine is in .22lr.  Great gun, but "shooting high or hyper velocity ammo voids the warranty" according to the fine manual.

   

   Also, if you're not careful with this design when firing left-handed you can accidentally flip the barrel-flip/takedown lever that's on the left side of the frame while firing and the gun disassembles itself while going bang! (Scared the hell out of me.)  Your slide will fly off somewhere and you look at the gun in your hand and wonder if you're about to start bleeding.

   

   It does NOT ever do this right-handed.  Just to be clear, I actually LIKE the pistol design.  It *DOES* have a left-hand limitation and the safety is non-ambi.

?

Bladetech attachment?

Awesome pictures, great looking stuff, Mr 45flint!

I've done both.  The NAA short killed an LCD, resulting in "all the colors of the rainbow" for a second.

   

   I agree with you totally on the CRT toughness. I killed a CRT once with handguns, but my .22 HR622 just wasn't cutting it. It took several rounds from .40 to get through that three inch glass. Formerly, it was expensive. When there is shooting outside your house, hide behind your old expensive CRT tv. The screen will probably stop a few .380 jhp at least.

   

   My FTFs with SuperX were mostly in groups, as in a "bad box."

   

   Just between you and me, I carry FMJ in my BW. I've seen too many non-expanded JHP pulled from ballistic gelatin. I've seen too much "inconsistent" expansion. Why pay more for a non-expanding hollow point?

   

   The very first CCI MM+V I saw pulled from gelatin was unexpanded. Perhaps it would have affected my FMJ decision, I don't know. I'm expecting to have to punch bone. If there were a spitzer point .22 mag FMJ, I would use that. They all have a bit of a meplat, unfortunately.

Good thread. I sort of wish now that I'd photographed some of the stuff I've tested with.

   

   I really should have filmed me shooting that monitor.

I'm in limbo, waiting for something new to grip so I can get grips.

My .22 short mini has had its side plate off twice by NAA after I bought it.  Let's just say it's been through a lot and still works well.  Two trips for major repair.  Two cylinders, new hammer, don't know what else exactly.  Round count?  No clue.  

   

   Those repairs aren't something I would have attempted personally, particularly with the warranty.  I'm just trying to learn more on a deeper level about a subject I like... little tiny things that go bang.

   

   Anyone know the procedure for timing a mini cylinder?  Informational purposes only.

20 years, and about how many rounds, tocsn?  Ballpark is fine, just curious.

I've been warned not to touch the side plate on a mini.  I've noticed that NAA "charges extra" if you send them a revolver with side plate removed for them to put it back together.

   

   This tells me that someone who doesn't know what they are doing will cause damage and most likely never get the plate back on correctly.

   

   Questions:

   1. Why would someone remove the side plate?

   2. What does one do to put it back on?

   3. There's nothing that corrodes under that plate, is there?

"Accurate" .22 short shooting technique

   

   With my NAA .22 short, I use the first three fingers of my off hand to press the pistol into the web of my shooting hand and don't "hold" the pistol with my shooting hand, just to cock the hammer and to pull the trigger.

   

   Also, I've noticed a dramatic accuracy increase using .22 short CB cap ammo as opposed to high velocity shorts.  Point of impact is wildly different, as well.

   

   Start at 3 feet, work back.  When I first began shooting my short, I couldn't hit past three feet either.  I can mostly hit soda cans at 7 paces.

   

   Considering this thing is more for jamming up a nostril, I guess this is "good enough" accuracy.